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When my partner and I first decided to go to Croatia the main draw was the Krka National Park as he’s wanted to see it for years. With that in mind, we needed to choose a base that would make it easily accessible. I’ll admit, that I was heavily Tiktok influenced to choose Split after seeing some beautiful videos of the city and its lovely beaches. It seemed like the perfect balance between city break and beach vibes! But our holiday in Split, Croatia didn’t turn out exactly as we expected. In fact, it was a trip that taught us some important lessons about travel planning.
When it came to booking a hotel we discovered that Split is pretty darn pricey, so we decided to stay just outside the city. We chose to stay in a small town just outside Split called Podstrana, and—let me be honest—it was kind of a mistake. I’d read somewhere that it was a quieter, more relaxed place than staying directly in Split and of course, it was much cheaper. What the reviews didn’t mention (and I failed to properly research) was just how much of a hassle getting into the city would be. Let’s just say, that when you’re 10 km away, the city feels a lot further thanks to the traffic!
During peak times, it would take us almost an hour to get into Split, crammed into an overcrowded bus where we often didn’t even get a seat. That part of the trip was not as relaxing as I’d imagined! Although what I will say is that the buses were reliable, and a cheap way to travel. A one-way ticket to split was just €1.25 when using the local bus app “Promet”. If you are staying in Podstrana, the bus you will want is the number 60 and it runs every 30 minutes. Alternatively, an Uber or Bolt was around €10-€12. Another downside of staying in Podstrana was that it felt very run down. Everywhere you turn the walls are covered in graffiti but on a brighter note, the beachfront is very beautiful and it’s a great spot for swimming.
The Hidden Costs of Split
Something else we weren’t quite prepared for was the cost of things. Don’t get me wrong—I knew Split wasn’t going to be as cheap as some other Croatian destinations, but I wasn’t expecting prices to be on par with some Western European cities. A simple Coca-Cola at a café would set us back a whopping €4.50, and cocktails were around €14. And this wasn’t just at the touristy spots. Whether we were grabbing a drink or a quick bite to eat, prices across the board were higher than expected.
This wasn’t just a food and drink thing either. Boat tours, entrance fees, and excursions quickly add up. If you’re visiting Split on a budget, it’s worth being mindful of these hidden costs. It’s the kind of city where those little indulgences—coffee here, a cocktail there—sneak up on you, and before you know it, you’ve blown through your budget for the day.
One thing I found particularly frustrating was that many of the public toilets in Split require coin payment of €1 or 50 cents, so if you don’t carry change you can be in a bit of a pickle! Even showers at some beaches charged 50 cents for 30 seconds.
Riva Harbour: A Beautiful Spot, But…
Another thing we weren’t quite prepared for was the smell of the harbour. Split’s main harbour, where many boats dock and ferries depart, is a beautiful sight at first glance, with yachts lined up against the backdrop of the Riva promenade. But, get a little closer and you’ll notice something less charming—the smell. There’s a lingering odor that hits you as you get near the water, and let me tell you, it is foul! There were several nice-looking bars and restaurants near the harbour but we couldn’t get away quickly enough as the smell was actually nauseating. This is due to the sulfur source in the area. The Roman Emperor Diocletian actually chose the location of his palace in part because of the sulfur springs, which he believed helped with his rheumatism. Regardless of the reasoning I prefer to enjoy a quiet drink away from the smell of rotten eggs!
Diocletian’s Palace: A Split Highlight
But let’s get to the good stuff—because there were of this parts of the trip that were fantastic. One of the highlights of Split was Diocletian’s Palace.
Diocletian’s Palace is a huge ancient palace located in the city of Split. It was built by the Roman Emperor Diocletian in the early 4th century AD as his retirement residence, following his abdication from the throne. The palace complex, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Sites is one of the best-preserved monuments of Roman architecture in the world and serves as the historical heart of modern-day Split. The Roman architechture is just stunning and the palace has been used as a filming location for shows such as Game of Thrones so it’s particularly exciting if you are a fan of the show! Visiting Diocletian’s Palace itself is free, as it is an open area integrated into the city of Split. You can walk around the palace grounds free of charge. However, some specific parts of the palace, such as the Cathedral of Saint Domnius , the Temple of Jupiter, and the palace substructures, require an entrance fee.
We spent hours wandering through the maze-like alleyways, discovering hidden courtyards and cozy little bars and restaurants and I’ll admit, getting lost!
Sun, Sand, and Sea: Split’s Beaches
Another highlight of Split is its beautiful beaches. While they’re not your classic white-sand beaches, Split’s pebble shores are incredibly inviting. The water is beautifully clear so it’s perfect for swimming.
One of the most popular spots is Bacvice Beach, located just a short walk from the city center. It’s a lively, urban beach that’s great for swimming or taking some time to relax after a morning of sightseeing.
If you’re looking for something a little quieter, Kasjuni Beach on the Marjan Peninsula is a more peaceful option. The water is incredibly clear, and it feels like a mini-retreat away from the city’s hustle and bustle. We spent an afternoon here soaking up the sun, and while it can get busy, it was still a laid-back vibe and we had plenty of space. There are small changing areas so can easily change into your swimwear. Just be aware that most beaches in Split are rocky or pebbly, so bring sea shoes if you’re sensitive to that!
For a more secluded experience, head to Znjan Beach. This beach is a bit farther from the center, but it’s worth the journey if you want to escape the crowds.
Glow Kayaking: A Nighttime Adventure
One of the absolute highlights of our trip—and probably one of the coolest things I’ve ever done—was glow kayaking at night. The kayaks have transparent bottoms and glow with different colors, which creates this surreal experience of seeing the sea life below you illuminated in the dark waters. The tour, which we booked through Get Your Guide, began at 9:30 pm, so it was fully dark when we headed out into the sea. We then made our way down the Žrnovnica river where the surrounding lights faded so we could really experience the glowing lights of our kayaks. We even saw some sea life with fish jumping out of the water! We then kayaked some more on the sea before ending the tour at a small beach outside of the bay where we could explore the sea bed and some photos were taken for us. The tour lasted 2.5 hours so we were quite tired by the time it finished at midnight! There are earlier slots available but we wanted to make sure it was fully dark so we could get the best glow experience. The photos from throughout the tour were shared with us via a shared Google Drive at the end. Overall I’d highly recommend glow kayaking in Split. It was a really unique experience that I’ll remember for years to come!
Krka National Park
Another day trip we booked was to the Krka National Park. Just over an hour from Split, the Krka National Park is home to seven breathtaking waterfalls and endless scenic views. It was the perfect day trip to immerse ourselves in nature and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. It was our main draw to Croatia in the first place! The highlight of the park is Skradinski Buk, a series of 17 cascading waterfalls that rush over limestone rocks into brilliant turquoise pools. If you love exploring nature trails and soaking in picturesque views, Krka is an absolute must! We booked a tour through Get Your Guide for just £12.64, plus an additional €30 for the park entrance fee. Some say this is expensive for a national park but for me, it was worth every penny and the tour itself was great value at just £12.64. The tour included transport to and from Split, a guided tour, a boat cruise, and a stop at Primosten Beach after exploring the park itself. Definitely one to check out!
Other Things to Do in Split
Aside from the palace, beaches, and kayaking, Split has so much to offer. If you’re into hiking or just want some incredible views, Marjan Hill is a popular spot. The walk to the top is a bit of a workout, especially in the summer heat, but the panoramic views over Split and the surrounding islands are worthwhile. On the way up, you’ll pass charming little chapels and hidden viewpoints that make the hike even more special.
For a day trip, we also took a boat tour to Shipwreck Bay, the Blue Lagoon, and Maslinica, a small fishing village on Solta. This was another great trip. The boat embarked from Split Harbour at 9 am. From there we spent an hour or so on the water enjoying the views until we reached Shipwreck Bay where we were given an opportunity to swim or snorkel over the remains of a sunken ship on the sea bed which was a really cool experience! We were later served lunch which was included with the trip, as well as unlimited soft drinks and wine. After lunch, we reached the blue lagoon where there were free sunloungers and a beach bar where we could relax or swim in the crystal-clear turquoise water. Our last stop was the village of Maslinica on the Island of Solta. Once again, we were given free time to explore the village so we could either enjoy the beach, have a walk around, or stop for drinks at a cafe or bar. The village was beautifully charming with such a relaxed atmosphere. I absolutely loved this part of the trip! After Maslinica the boat made its way back to Split Harbour for its 5 pm finish time. I would recommend this trip as we got to see some fabulous places whilst enjoying beautiful views and getting some sun! The only downside was that the boat was quite crowded, but that said, everyone had their own seat so it didn’t spoil the experience. We did the boat trip and the glow kayaking on the same day as we really wanted to pack in as many experiences as possible during our short time in Croatia. It was a long day but totally worth it!
A Few Tips If You’re Heading to Split
Looking back, we did have some unforgettable experiences in Split, but I’d probably do a few things differently if I were to go again. Here are my tips if you’re planning your own trip:
Stay in Split: If you want to save time over money, stay in Split, Not Podstrana: Unless you’re really craving a quieter spot (and have a car), staying in Split itself will save you time and headaches. Podstrana was fine, but it wasn’t exactly the charming, beachside haven we were hoping for. Plus, traffic getting in and out of Split was an absolute nightmare.
Prepare for High Prices: Split is more expensive than you might expect. It’s worth budgeting for those little extras because they add up fast. And if you’re like us and love a spontaneous cocktail, factor that into your daily expenses!
Walk the City Early or Late: Split gets busy during the day, especially around the palace. We found the best time to explore was either early in the morning or later in the evening. The cooler temperatures and fewer tourists made it way more enjoyable to take in the sights without the crowds.
Don’t Miss the Beaches: While they’re not all sandy, Split’s beaches are beautiful in their own way. Bring some sea shoes, and make time to chill by the Adriatic Sea.
Try Glow Kayaking: For something truly unique, book a nighttime glow kayaking tour. It’s such a cool way to see the coastline from a different angle, and the glowing kayaks are magical.
Overall Impression of Split
Overall, our trip to Split was a mixed bag of highs and lows. We had some incredible experiences—glow kayaking, exploring Diocletian’s Palace, and our visit to Krka—but we learned a lot about the importance of research and realistic expectations. Split is a beautiful city, but it’s not as budget-friendly as we thought, and staying in Podstrana wasn’t the relaxing experience we’d hoped for.
If you’re planning a trip to Split, I’d recommend staying in the city, budgeting for higher prices, and definitely trying out some of the unique activities like glow kayaking. Split is a stunning place, but it’s essential to plan accordingly for the best experience.
